When the Going Gets Rough
By Ron LaNeve
Sailing in
heavy air can be a lot of fun, and definitely makes for some excellent
sea stories. However, if you are not ready for this type of weather, it
could turn out to be one of your worst nightmares.
Preparation is the key and a must. Prepare your boat in general, checking
all the rigging and hardware. Then get yourself ready with the proper foul
weather gear, and of course use common sense not to start out in a Force
9. However, if you are out there when Neptune and Mother Nature dish out
the worst, you might as well be primed to take it. Having the proper sails
will make sailing in heavy air possible. You will be able to endure the
severe conditions and even have fun.
The Heavy Weather Jib
This sail is the first heavy weather sail you want to add, whether you
are racing or cruising, coastal or blue water. This sail is built to ORC
regulations: about 85% of the I for the hoist and 85% of the J for the
LP(the overlap). The sail is considered to be a #4 jib for many boats.
It is built of material equal to or heavier than that of the mainsail.
This sail is cut with a higher clew and minimal foot round to allow waves
to wash through the bow. Seams are triple stitched, leech and foot are
double taped, and all corners are heavily reinforced.
Reefing a larger genoa on a furling system will work for a short period,
but if you are sailing for any time or distance, a sail that is made for
this weather will trim much better and last longer in your inventory. Heavy
air will put severe strain on a furled sail or a jib that is reefed. It
does not make much sense to ruin your allpurpose genoa in this type
of weather.
Also, boats with furling systems or grooved headstays must have an alternate
means of attaching the heavy weather jib. Grommets along the luff will
allow you to lace the sail to the headstay to prevent the sail from pulling
out of the track. A head pennant is used to allow the halyard to be raised
to its full hoist position. This same practice is used on the storm jib
and trisail.
The Storm Jib
ORC regulations suggest a storm jib with an area not to exceed 5% of
the foretriangle squared, and not to exceed 65% of the height of the foretriangle.
For many boats, in certain conditions, a jib built a bit smaller would
be more acceptable. A sail built from the specifications above may be too
large in a breeze above 60 knots. This jib would have a high clew and a
straight foot (no foot round). Once again you do not want waves washing
through the bow and catching the sail. The tack would be 18" to 24"
off the deck, using a tack pennant to help keep the sail clear of waves,
bow pulpit and chafing on the lifelines. You would want to try this sail
a few times in lighter conditions to find a proper lead position. You may
even want to install padeyes in the deck to give you the best lead location.
In 45 to 60 knots of wind you do not want to be trying to adjust the lead
position.
On boats rigged with an inner forestay, the storm jib is moved back
off the headstay. Moving the sail aft reduces the lee helm that may occur
with a smaller headsail.
The Storm Trisail
Again, ORC regulations specify a size to build the sail. The rule reads
that a storm trisail be not larger than 0.175xPxE in area. This is approximately
onethird the size of a full mainsail. This area, like the storm jib,
will vary for different boats. The average seems to be 50% of the P (hoist)
and 66% of the E (foot).
"This sail shall be sheeted independently of the boom and will
have no battens or headboard," per ORC regulations. One of the main
reasons for the size differences in the trisail is the sheeting arrangements
on different boats. Ideally the sail will sheet to the leeward rail aft
of the cockpit winches. The boom will be lowered to the deck and lashed
clear of the trisail.
Most important is the way in which you will attach this sail to the
mast. It is recommended that this trisail have its own track, mounted to
the side of the primary luff track. Usually a 7/8 external track would
be mounted 6" to 12" off the deck to a height a few feet longer
than the luff of the sail, usually at or just above the spreader locations
on most boats. This is a solid point on the mast. Having a separate track
and keeping the track low to the deck allows you to hook up the sail and
have it available when its needed. There will be no need to remove the
existing mainsail, which could be a bit of a chore in a breeze that warrants
a trisail. Just lash down the main and hoist the trisail.
With heavy air sails, it is suggested to occasionally use them even
if it is not blowing hard. It is essential to find a good lead position
and see exactly how the sail sets. If you have any questions on heavy air
sails for your boat, call your local loft and we will be glad to help out.
Sail safe, sail smart and sail well.